Like many other natural features in the region, the Ihlara valley was formed due to volcanic eruptions and subsequent earthquakes millennia ago. The first humans to settle in the valley were probably monks, who found a perfect retreat and worship place in the canyon. The hidden and quiet valley gave the monks ideal conditions to pursue their hermitage.
Later on, other Christians found the valley as a haven in times of conflict. It is estimated that the valley had around 4,000 dwellings and a hundred cave chapels complete with fine frescoes. Although most are pretty damaged, some of these churches and monasteries remain to date.
When medieval monks and later Christians settled in Ihlara, they carved out places of worship in the soft volcanic rock on the valley sides. Historians estimate that up to a hundred churches once donned the gorge. Today, only a few of these remain in conditions good enough to allow visitors inside. The best of these include:
Agacalti Kilise (Church Under the Tree)
Sitting on the south of the entry, this cross-planned church has some pretty striking red, green, and yellow decorations. Unlike other byzantine decorations, the church has paintings of flowers amongst religious frescoes of the Baptism, Flight into Egypt, Domination of the Virgin, and the most impressive- Daniel in the Lion’s Den.
Kokar Kilise (The Smelly Church)
This 9th-century church can be accessed via a ruined apse since a landslide blocked the original entrance. Inside, frescoes representing the Gospel, escaping to Egypt, the Virgin Mary, Visitation, and Jesus Christ adorn the walls and roof.
Purenli Seksi Kilisesi (Church with the Terrace)
Sitting 25 meters above the river, this church includes an entrance hall, a double naos, and a burial chamber. This chapel features ancient wall paintings with exquisite details and treats visitors to unique designs, and is one of the boldest forms of expression in any medieval church.
Other churches in the valley include Egritas Kilise, Sumbulu Kilise, Yilanli Kilise, Karagedik Kilise, Ala Kilise, and many more. Over the years, a few mummified remains have been excavated in these churches. The most famous of these remains is The Nun of Ihlara from the Yilanli Kilise (serpent church). The remains are currently on display at Nigde Muzesi in central Anatolia.
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Like any other valley, hiking is one of the best ways to explore Ihlara valley and its churches fully. There are steps carved out in the gorge, and there are two ways to hike the valley. From the Ihlara Valley Touristic Installations, 360 steps descend into the canyon, where visitors spend hours walking up and down the valley. After exploration, visitors exit the valley the same way they came in by reclimbing the steps.
Alternatively, visitors descend the steps and, after exploring the churches, hike south and exit the valley via Ihlara village. Whichever hiking route you choose, the journey still gives you a fantastic scenic experience.
The valley has some pretty exciting features, some of which we have already looked into (like the churches) or mentioned. The Melendiz river cutting through the valley’s heart is a natural wonder that attracts many visitors each year. This river also features trees and idyllic riverside restaurants on either side, contributing to the valley’s aesthetic.
Some Ihlara Valley restaurants include Star Restaurant and Pension, Catlagin Yeri Restaurant, Anatolia Valley Restaurant and Camping, and a lot more. In these restaurants, visitors can chill and catch a break before continuing with their hike.
Inside the valley is the famous Anatolian Village, the village of Belisirma, home to the Belisirma restaurant where many tours have their lunch break. Further on is the Yaprakhisar village with stunning views of fairy chimneys. While in the valley, you can also see the iconic Selime Monastery.
When combined, all these features make Ihlara Valley a picturesque destination with a slight touch of medieval and Christian history.
Ihlara valley is open every day, except on Mondays, between 08:00 and 19:00 hrs. During winter, the closing hours reduce to 17:00 hrs. The valley sits about 85 km from Goreme town; therefore, prepare for a long scenic drive to the gorge. Once you get to the valley, there are ticket booths and a parking lot at the Ihlara Valley touristic installations.
Although you can see an overview of the valley, its natural aesthetics fully embrace you only when you descend into the valley via the stairs. It will be a long way down, but it makes for an excellent warm-up for the hiking to be performed on the valley floor as you explore this idyllic location.
Down the valley, there is a 4km hiking track along the Melendiz River, whose soft whispering trickle makes for a hypnotic background sound in the gorge. Following the river in the company of natural trees on either side make this a natural experience like no other.
The Melendiz isn’t that deep, so you can easily cross to either side at will. Along the way, you’ll see and visit the rock dwellings and cave churches that have become synonymous with the Cappadocian region.
Inside the churches, enjoy some astonishing wall paintings that decorate the walls and roofs of these medieval structures. Most of these churches are located at a higher altitude, so you should be willing to go up and down flights of stairs if you want to explore them.
Once you get to Belisirma Village, which sits about 3.5 km into the valley, you will have your lunch break at the local restaurant. In this village, many tourists decide to turn back and exit the valley the same way they came in, while some fancy their endurance levels and decide to continue for another 6km to the end of the valley, and with great reward.
Along the rest of the way, you can see one of the most captivating religious settlements in Cappadocia, the Selime Monastery. There are also stunning views of fairy chimneys at Yaprakhisar village that will make the extra hike worth it.
Ihlara valley can be found in Cappadocia alongside other excellent attractions. The nearest one to the valley is the iconic Selime monastery. Other places to visit in the region include Guzelyurt, Kaymakli & Derinkuyu underground cities, Asiklihoyuk, Selime, and Agzikarahan Caravanserai.
